Himalayan. . . .Just Go Already!

 Over the weekend, John and I went to a new restaurant on Franklin and 24th called simply Himalayan. To be honest, we didn't have great expectations going in.

Our experience with Tibetan and Nepali food in town has been lukewarm at best. There's Everest on Grand, which is. . . .fine. And there used to be a place on Hennepin Avenue called Tibet's Corner that had wonderful, haunting music but food that tasted strange, Americanized, ketchup-y, and bland. (It was no surprise to us when it closed.)

Last month -- while in Madison, WI, with our son -- I ate at a modest but terrific little Nepali cafe called Himal Chuli and mourned the fact that such simple, clean, authentic ethnic fare had not found its way to the Twin Cities.

Well, now it has!
Himalayan is, perhaps, the most Spartan restaurant I've been inside in my adult life. There was zero investment in creating ambiance: no beaded curtains or pewter elephants or colored lights. This is a small, white box of a room with windows on only one side. There is a buffet table next to the cash register, a smattering of booths and tables, and a single photo of Mt. Everest on the wall.

Yet, it is comfortable. We chose a booth and settled in. There was a lovely, light scent of lamb and spices coming from the kitchen. We ordered two cups of Masala Chiya (spiced tea with milk) and appetizers.

We liked the Kathmandu Momo with meat ($6 for half a dozen), which were soft and savory. But even better were the Wo: lentil pancakes with ginger and fresh cilantro (a steal at four for $4.50). These reminded me of latkes -- only meatier, with flavors from the mountains rather than the steppes.

For our main course, we shared a platter of Choyala with chicken ($11.95), a platter of grilled-to-nearly-blackened meat with peppers, onions, and herbs, and an extra-spicy order of Aaloo Cauli ($9.95): stir-fried potatoes with cauliflower and peas in a rich red sauce. Both were served steaming -- which improves a spicy meal ten-fold for me -- with white rice. It was a cold, rainy night and this meal was filling and satisfying and hot.

Ours, however, was the only table in the place. And this is tragic.
While Himalayan won't win any David Shea design awards, it's exactly what we need in this town to diversify our ethnic food offerings. It's inexpensive and family-owned, serving the simple, traditional food of a region that gets short shrift. But it's also in a location (2401 E. Franklin Avenue) that has some sort of curse over it: restaurant after restaurant has failed to make a go in that spot. Don't let this one be another casualty on the list.

Just go. Now. Shake off that Chipotle habit. Whatever you're doing, stop, put on your shoes, pick up your wallet, and drive over to Seward with a mind to eat something more interesting and support a local businessman who wants nothing more than to make you a great meal.
Or, you can call: 612-332-0880. Himalayan also does takeout.

 

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Himalayan Restaurant in Seward

by James Norton on April 3, 2009

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

What the devil are fajitas doing in a Nepalese restaurant? Ample cilantro, onions, charred chicken, tomatoes — sure, the oven’s a tandoor and the tortilla is a big piece of naan, but it’s downright eerie how much Himalayan Restaurant’s chicken choyala ($11.95) resembles a Tex-Mex favorite, even though it’s a case of evolutionary convergence. It’s also downright delectable — the spices are applied in a moist rub that almost recalls Southern BBQ, and the overall impact is simultaneously comforting and stimulatingly new. Portions are generous; one order serves two moderate eaters.

With very little fuss and a relaxed ambiance, the year-old Himalayan is serving up some highly stimulating ethnic eats to a neighborhood crowd — this kind of vegetarian/vegan friendly grub seems like a good match for Seward, which boasts a strong contingent of gastronomically and politically progressive folks.

Himalayan dodges the problem that dogs many Tibetan/Nepalese places — namely, the tendency to serve what tastes like wan retreads of Mughal Indian favorites, minus the lush, deeply spiced sauces that make them so irresistible. Although Himalayan’s cuisine is light on its feet, it feels fresh and distinct, offering some flavor combinations and ingredients (yak dumplings, anybody?) that will surprise all but the most cosmopolitan of palates.

Kataar Aaloo is a dish comprised of jack-fruit buds cooked with potatoes and spices. Never had a jack-fruit bud? It’s well worth the effort — in Himalayan’s capable hands, it comes off as a happy marriage between artichoke hearts, tofu, and bamboo shoots, tender and yielding and light.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Even the more conventional dishes (from an Indian/Chinese buffet standpoint) have surprises to offer. Momo — dumplings — are elegant and dextrous, blessed with a hit of orange and herbal lightness that helps them transcend their often leaden genre. Likewise, the restaurant’s version of chicken tikka masala is different enough from the norm to stand out. Notes of yogurt and fruit dominate, as opposed to cream and tomatoes; this is a chicken tikka masala that chats conversationally as opposed to singing opera.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Himalayan does a daily lunch buffet for $7.75, and while it’s not a bad introduction to what the restaurant has to offer, it suffers the typical shortcomings of its ilk — the food tends to sit, and you miss some of the exotic nooks and crannies of what is a truly thoughtful and creative menu.

Friendly, pretense-free service completes this picture of neighborhood dining at its finest: the Himalayan Restaurant offers locals the opportunity to walk around the block, eat dinner in Nepal, and really enjoy the people they interact with while they’re doing it.

Himalayan Restaurant

 (Excellent)

Nepalese in Seward
2401 E. Franklin Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.332.0880
OWNER/CHEF: Naveen Shrestha/Sarala Kattel
HOURS:
Tue-Sun 11am-9:30pm (buffet from 11am-2pm)
Mon CLOSED
BAR: Bar + Wine
RESERVATIONS/RECOMMENDED: No
VEGETARIAN/VEGAN: Yes/Yes
AVERAGE ENTREE: $11

    [6 Comments]

6 Responses to “Himalayan Restaurant in Seward”

1. Kate 

   04/03/2009 at 8:55 AM

   I haven’t been but it sounds like I’ll have to make the trek over to Seward again one of these days. When I lived in Prospect park a few years back there was a great Argentinian restaurant in the space, El Gaucho. Prior to that it was a hole in the wall breakfast place.

   Hopefully these owners will see more success than the previous tenants.

2. Kim 

   04/03/2009 at 12:10 PM

   I love this place and I’m glad that it’s getting some recognition! They have a sister restaurant–the Highland Cafe, on Ford Parkway–that has mostly a standard diner/cafe menu and a much more limited Nepalese menu with the momos, kothe, samosas, and a couple curries. Worth checking out if Seward’s not close.

3. Sharyn 

   04/05/2009 at 1:15 PM

   Ooh, I keep forgetting about the Himalayan. I need to get back there soon. I tend to go to Everest on Grand instead because it’s closer to home, though I do spend a fair amount of time in the Seward neighborhood.

4. Sarah 

   04/06/2009 at 8:14 AM

   I love the Himalayan Cafe! The staff is very friendly and genuinely happy you are there to enjoy there food. I cant get enough of their palak paneer, its the best i have ever had. Its my favorite place to sit down and enjoy a meal with my boyfriend, and i cant leave without the delicious house made rasmali.

5. Kathryn 

   04/09/2009 at 8:52 AM

   Himalayan is the latest best thing to happen in Seward. The reviewed didn’t even mention the kwati — a lovely, bean-filled vegan soup, just right with naan on a cool day. I crave it.
   Himalayan may be unpretentious, but the wait staff is always gracious, and it is nice to be able to order a nice glass of wine with dinner too.

6. John 

   04/12/2009 at 1:29 AM

   I LOVE the Himalayan! If you do too, join the Facebook group “Fans of Himalayan Restaurant in Minneapolis” athttp://www.facebook.com/group......amp;ref=ts.

 

    A real gem on Franklin Ave!‎ - Mike‎ - Sep 9, 2008